Luke Smalley, the art photographer famous for his playful images that explored the intersections between fashion and masculinity, died unexpectedly on Sunday at the age of 53.
Smalley’s work cultivated an aura of lighthearted manliness by lifting from an array of masculine ideals — 20th-century fitness manuals, vintage school portraits, antique exercise equipment. Although Smalley was not a household name, he was revered among leading men’s-wear image makers, most notably his frequent collaborator and friend, the designer Kim Jones. (In 2004, Smalley teamed up with Jones on a book chronicling American youth culture, and a year later for a fashion story in T.)
Luke SmalleySmalley’s work appeared in progressive men’s fashion publications such as Dazed & Confused, V Magazine, Vogue Hommes International, Another Man and Arena Homme Plus. His two books, “Exercise at Home” and “Gymnasium,” were showcases for his tongue-in-cheek take on adolescence. (A final book on his work, “Sunday Drive,” will come out later this year.) While certainly homoerotic, Smalley’s images were never perverse. Instead, through the imaginative use of props, costumes and staging, Smalley helped bridge the gap between whimsy, sensuality and machismo — a viewpoint men all too seldom see reflected in popular culture.
We e-mailed Kim Jones, who is currently traveling through Africa, to get his thoughts on the passing of close collaborator and friend. His response follows:
When I saw ‘Gymnasium’ on a shelf at the Mercer Hotel — around 2002 — I instantly fell in love with Luke’s work. I thought it was almost like a graphic Bruce Weber. I immediately wanted to work with him. He was such a sweet guy and a total perfectionist. Everyone that met him thought he was amazing.
I remember shooting in an old Amish village with Luke during the winter — I think it must have been 15 degrees. The model, Ambrose Olsen, was freezing and shaking in the cold — he later told me that he wouldn’t have done it for anyone else except Luke because he was such a great guy.
Luke cared so much about everything in his work that everyone involved wanted to make anything happen for him. He was such a great talent who was underestimated by many, but I’m sure future generations will appreciate everything he’s done.”